Chicago

Chicago's queer center is on the North Side: the Northalsted neighborhood, long known by the nickname "Boystown". It is considered the first officially recognized gay village in the US. Along Halsted Street, the Rainbow Pylons mark the area, and on the stretch between Belmont and Grace more than 30 bars, clubs and restaurants line up. If you prefer things quieter and more residential, neighboring Andersonville further north is a second, more relaxed queer spot with cafés, bookstores and restaurants.

Going out centers on Halsted Street, where the choice ranges from show bars to big dance clubs. A fixture is Sidetrack: for more than 40 years the bar has anchored the neighborhood, with show tune nights and a large rooftop deck. Hydrate Nightclub is the place for dancing and is known for its drag shows, while Kit Kat Lounge & Supper Club combines dinner with a stage show. On long weekends the action runs from early cocktail hours deep into the night.

Even though it's inland, Chicago has several city beaches right on Lake Michigan along the Lakefront Trail. The traditional meeting spot for the queer community is Hollywood Beach on the North Side, near Andersonville, often simply called "Halsted Beach". Because it's a lake, the water stays cooler than the ocean, and the season is limited to the warm summer months. If you want sun, volleyball and a skyline view, this is the place.

Chicago is most pleasant between June and September, when it's warm and life moves outdoors. These months also bring the big community dates: Chicago Pride Fest, the Chicago Pride Parade with around a million spectators, and Northalsted Market Days, the largest street festival in the Midwest. Winter, on the other hand, is very cold and windy, which is where the nickname "Windy City" comes from.Spring and fall are milder and quieter, but the weather is less reliable.

Chicago has two airports: the big hub O'Hare International in the northwest and the smaller Midway International in the southwest. Flights take about nine hours from London and about two and a half hours from New York. From both airports the "L", the city's elevated and subway network, runs straight downtown: the Blue Line from O'Hare, the Orange Line from Midway. To reach Northalsted, take the Red or Brown Line to Belmont or Addison. In the city itself, buses, trains and walking get you around easily, and you'll rarely need a rental car for a city break. For US citizens this is a domestic trip; UK citizens need no visa for up to 90 days but must have an approved ESTA before travel, so check the current rules before you go.

Chicago is in Illinois, a state that recognizes same-sex marriage and bans discrimination based on sexual orientation and gender identity. The city is known as open-minded, and in Northalsted and Andersonville queer life is simply part of everyday life. As in any big city, it's wise to watch your surroundings at night in outlying areas and keep an eye on your valuables. In the gay neighborhoods and downtown, queer travelers can usually move around without worry.