São Paulo

The heart of queer life beats around Rua Frei Caneca in the Consolação district. Bars, cafés, clubs and saunas are packed together there, often several to a block. Things are more upscale in Jardins around Rua Oscar Freire, where fashion, restaurants and a well-off crowd set the tone. Bohemian Vila Madalena has more of an artsy feel, with small galleries and easygoing bars. A good share of the city's queer life is spread across these neighborhoods, so it is worth exploring more than one.

In São Paulo, nights out start late and often end only at dawn. Around Rua Frei Caneca there is something for every taste, from cozy bars to big clubs playing electro and Brazilian pop. Throughout the year, party series and pop-up events shape the scene, and most are announced at short notice on social media. A highlight is São Paulo Gay Pride in June: the parade along Avenida Paulista is considered the largest in the world and, according to Guinness World Records, draws three to five million people.

The shoulder seasons are the most pleasant: fall in April and May and spring in September and October, when temperatures stay mild and there is less rain. The southern summer from December to February is hot and humid, with frequent afternoon thunderstorms. Pride in June falls in the cooler winter, but it can still mean full hotels and higher prices, so book early if you want to see the parade.

Guarulhos International Airport (GRU) lies about 25 kilometers northeast of downtown. Flights from London take about eleven and a half hours, and from New York about ten. From the airport you can get into the center by airport bus, ride-hailing app or a rail connection. UK citizens need no visa for stays of up to 90 days, while US citizens need an e-visa applied for online before travel; check the current rules before you go. In the city, the metro and apps like Uber are the practical choice, because São Paulo is huge and traffic is often slow. The metro is clean and fast but does not reach every corner of the city. For short trips within the scene neighborhoods, walking is usually enough.

Brazil recognizes same-sex marriage, and the Supreme Court has ruled that anti-LGBTQ violence is to be treated legally like racism. In everyday life São Paulo is open, especially in the neighborhoods mentioned above, where holding hands and visible queer life are normal. Otherwise, the usual big-city precautions apply: do not show off expensive valuables, take a cab at night and avoid deserted areas. The queer districts themselves are considered welcoming and busy.