Buenos Aires

The queer heart of the city beats in Palermo, more precisely in Palermo Soho around Thames, Armenia and Gurruchaga streets. Since the 1990s, this bohemian neighborhood with its once-cheap rents has grown into the center of LGBTQ-run bars and restaurants. Queer visibility here is exceptionally high. During the day, too, the neighborhood with its boutiques, cafés and galleries makes a good base. If you want to see more of the city, combine it with the artists' quarter of La Boca and its Caminito, the elegant La Recoleta cemetery where Evita is buried, and historic San Telmo.

Nightlife in Buenos Aires starts late and goes on until morning. Most queer bars and clubs are concentrated in Palermo and the adjoining center, from relaxed bars to big dance floors. A long pre-party phase is the norm, and clubs often don't really fill up until after midnight. If you prefer something more traditional, there are also tango halls and, on Sundays, spontaneous open-air performances in San Telmo.

Buenos Aires is in the Southern Hemisphere, so the seasons are reversed. The most pleasant times to visit are the southern spring (October and November) or fall (March and April), when temperatures stay mild. From December to February the summer can be hot and humid, while winter tends to be cool and damp. A special highlight is the Marcha del Orgullo in November, which runs from Plaza de Mayo past Congress through the center and, with hundreds of thousands of participants, is one of the biggest queer events in Latin America.

International flights land at Ezeiza Airport (EZE), southwest of the city, and take about 14 hours from London and about 11 hours from New York. From Ezeiza, taxis, ride-hailing services and shuttle buses run to the center. Domestic and some regional flights use Aeroparque Jorge Newbery (AEP), close to the city on the Río de la Plata. Getting around town is easy and cheap with the subway (Subte) and buses, using the rechargeable SUBE card. UK and US citizens need no visa for stays of up to 90 days; check the current entry requirements before you travel.

Legally, Argentina is one of the most liberal countries in the world: same-sex marriage has been possible since 2010, and a progressive gender identity law makes legal recognition easier for trans people. In Palermo and the central districts the queer scene is visible and relaxed, and couples holding hands barely stand out. As in any big city, take the usual precautions against pickpockets, especially on crowded buses, at tourist spots and in deserted corners at night. Palermo itself is one of the safer neighborhoods and a good place to get your bearings.